How to remove corrosion on the car body - the question in which all car owners are asked sooner or later, in particular the owners of newly acquired cars. Incorrect coloring technology can entail the blizzard in paintwork, which enhances the likelihood of the appearance of rust foci. With this unpleasant phenomenon, it is desirable to deal with the forces of qualified car service specialists. However, since not everyone can afford similar costs, most often have to solve the problem. About this further in the article.

What is corrosion or rust metal

Metal corrosion is the destruction of its structure under the influence of environmental factors. Many mistakenly think that corrosion and rust are actually the same. In part, this is true, but the metal is destroyed not only under the influence of moisture, but from electrochemical and chemical contact with the surrounding atmosphere.

Why rust appears on the car body

Temperature differences, increased humidity, aggressive reagents on the road surface and other factors provoke the occurrence of rust on the vehicle body. Modern foreign cars are subject to this fear of at least in comparison with domestic cars.

However, in any case, regardless of the country of production, the emergence of corrosion are not protected by cars that have been damaged and poorly restored paintwork and / or galvanized. The emergence of corrosion not only significantly spoil the appearance of the vehicle. Under the influence of time, the damaged area is deepened and expands, and the element has to be changed completely.

Metal corrosion species

There are dry and wet atmospheric corrosion. If the parts of the vehicle, made of iron or steel, swelling in a dry medium, then need anti-corrosion processing, which prevents the contact of the surface with moisture. With dry corrosion damage to metal destruction is not observed. With wet corrosion on the metal over time, the focus of rust appears, which increases more and more.

In addition, these types of corrosion damage are distinguished:

• Cosmetic corrosion. It appears on the plots on which the overhead elements are in contact with the body surface, namely: under radiator lattices, moldings, lanterns, and so on. At the initial stage, such corrosion is quite easily eliminated and cannot lead to dangerous consequences. However, in the launched form develops into corrosion of the puppy.
• Beam corrosion. Appears under a paint coating in the form of so-called rust foci. It is not rarely accompanied by blinking paint bubbles, however, it happens and invisible. May develop in width and depth. In the launched state is converted to corrosion through.
  
• Through corrosion. It is the last stage of destruction, under the conditions of which through holes of various diameters appear on the surface. The previous state of this stage is corrosion point.
• Point corrosion. On the surface of the metal, tiny points appear that develop in depth. If the state is running, the holes are actively expanding.
• Stained corrosion. Encompasses small sections. With a small depth of the lesion, such corrosion is developing into width.

Ways to protect the car from rust in summer

Enemy substances that gradually destroy the metal are saturated with the urban air itself, which contains many harmful products, as well as particles from exhaust gases, among which sulfur dioxide, ammonia, chlorine, nitrogen oxide. All this settles on the body of your car.

In addition, in summer, the coating suffers from entering it particles of sand and asphalt from under the wheels passing by cars. And the dirt sticking to the bottom in rainy weather does not dry out for a long time, even if the weather has already become dry and hot. If the dirt is not flushed on time, the continuous destructive process begins. That is why it is necessary to constantly contain a car clean.

How to protect the car from rust in winter

If the car owner puts the cold (with frost) vehicle in a heated garage, thereby provoking the formation of corrosion. Especially if the room is incorrectly equipped with a ventilation system. Metal elements of the car are covered by condensate, air humidity increases and ideal conditions are created to appear the focus of further damage.

It is worth noting that the risk of corrosion is increasing if the car owner is lazy in the winter time to clean the bottom daily. Of course, the results of cleaning and washing will disappear already the next morning, as soon as the car will drive along the road, which is sprinkled by a chemical reagent. However, if all the time to care for the car and wash it even in winter, not paying attention to the freezing of locks, the car enthusiast can reduce the risk of corrosion.

Car corrosion, the most vulnerable bodies of the car

You can select a number of the most common places of rust:

1. Doors.
2. Thresholds.
3. Bottom.
4. Frame.
5. Wings.
6. Wheel arches.
7. The outer and inner surface of the trunk.
8. The outer and inner surface of the hood.
9. Sections of the floor under car seat and driver's legs.
10. Places of contact of the surface of the body with overhead items.

How to identify the place of corrosion

To identify corrosion places, it is necessary to regularly examine the above sections. When external signs of rust are discovered, it is necessary to take action immediately. Otherwise, insignificant damage can paint into a serious problem, to eliminate which it will be much more difficult.

Tools, consumables, equipment

Before proceeding with work, you need to purchase the required tools and consumables. Car enthusiasts with significant financial capabilities can buy sandblasting machine in auto shops, grinding machine, as well as special professional auto chemicals.

However, in the garage, such equipment is not always convenient. If the car owner has no funds for the purchase of grinders and a sandblasting machine, he will have to be content with abrasive skins of various grainies and metal brushes. Work with these means requires physical effort, mass of time and patience.

Choosing a workplace

All work is carried out in a spacious and well-ventilated room, for example, in the garage or workshop.

Professional chemistry for rust removal

A set of chemicals required to remove rust consists of anti-corrosion soil, putty, rust converter and degreaser. To work with such drugs, you need to purchase several pairs of gloves.

Grinding machine for rust removal

The use of grinders - rational energy and time savings at the primary stripper stage. This useful device is useful for body repair, preparation for painting and many other tasks. You can choose the cheapest and simple model.

Sandblasting apparatus for rust removal

The sandblasting machine is desirable, but not all available at the cost of the thing. This technique is usually applied in car services, while industrial models are equipped with a re-circulation option. As for sandblasting installations that do not have such a function, it is allocated to work with them in the workshop, since the sand under pressure flies in all directions.

Safety in working with chemical components

To work with chemicals, it is necessary to use protective gloves. Be careful that the substance does not fall on the skin either in the eye.

Preparatory work on car cleaning

The complexity of the restoration of the body is that before removing rust, it is first necessary to detect that it is not so easy. It is advisable to first wash and dry the vehicle, after which it is thoroughly explore its surface, firing special attention in areas of the most likely to appear corrosion. Only when all the foci are found and found, we can talk about choosing a way to remove them. From the type of defect and the degree of its nestness will depend on which processing method will be most effective.

Rust removal methods with sandblasting

The advantage of the method is a thorough cleaning that covers the smallest pores and retains the original metal thickness. The nozzle of the apparatus is directed to the problem area and the shelling of the surface of the sandy jet starts, pressing the control pedal. Podchinka under pressure is knocked out rust and, in the presence of the return circulation option, sucking back into the device.

How to remove rust hardware grinding

The advantage of the method is high processing speed. The grinder disc rotates at high speed, removing the spoiled coating and taking the body surface to the metal gloss. The minus of the method - the thickness of the metal is reduced during processing, which already "lost" from rust.

Rust removal work by grinding manually

The essence is the same as in the previous method, only the processing is carried out here with a metal brush or sandpaper paper of large and medium grain, as well as scotchbright and abrasive discs.

Pluses of manual grinding

The advantages of manual grinding: low cost, the possibility of cleaning hard-to-reach places.

Cons manual grinding

Disadvantages of manual grinding: high time spent, laboriousness, change of metal thickness on affected areas.

Chemical processing of metal

In some situations it is more convenient to use chemical methods. In the car there are several places where it is impossible to perform mechanical cleaning. In such areas, the rust is removed by chemical path (with the help of aerosol, tampons or brushes on damaged areas, special substances are applied - rust transducers).

There are washes and implant converters. Washing converters are necessary after treatment, washed from the surface with water. Immediately after washing, the metal is dried and an anti-corrosion product is applied to it. It is impossible to leave metal without protection for a long time.

As for the implanted converters, they enter the chemical reaction with corrosion and form a coating suitable for paint. In a different way, they are called soil transducers.

Pros and Cons Chemical Processing

The advantage of such converters is a high-quality cleaning of the body to intact metal. The disadvantage is less efficiency in comparison with previous methods.

Cleaning rust from the surface of the car, gradually

1. After selecting a suitable method of deleting defects, the primary cleaning of the surface is performed. The damaged area is thoroughly and scrupulously cleaned with sand, skin or machine to an absolutely smooth, clean and smooth surface. During the processing of a separate spot, it is necessary to clean the area around education for several centimeters. As a rule, this stage is the longest and time consuming.
2. Next, the stripped place is degreasing with a special means. Then the rust converter is applied to the processed area. Since the basis of all factory products is acid, work must be performed in gloves. After that, the converter is washed off and primer is applied to the surface. In the presence of dents or irregularities before applying the soil, there is a putty.
3. The final stage is the applying of paintwork.

The car has a hole through that you need to use in your work

If the corrosion is so strong that through holes were formed on the metal surface, they need to be firmly closed. Small holes are closed with fiberglass putty. For extensive holes, a special set is bought, which includes fiberglass and epoxy resin. The surface around the hole is cleaned of contaminants. Directly on the hole impose a fragment of fiberglass, carved in the form of a hole. Simultaneously from the inside, the temporary substrate is attached. From above on fiberglass poured epoxy resin. After the frozen in order to enhance the strength of the patchwork from the inside, they carry out the same operation on the site of the attached time substrate.

How can you make rust converter with your own hands

In the absence of a rust factory converter, you can make it with your own hands. To do this, it is necessary to add a little oxal or citric acid to two liters of ordinary water and 15 grams of food soda. After applying this fluid to the surface, you need to wait a few minutes, after which it is good to wash it with a large amount of water.

Than you can replace the degreaser

The degreasing substance can be replaced by a household dishwashing agent.

How to choose the color of the car paint

During the selection of paints to cover the renovated area, it is desirable to consistently consult with the specialists, since it is necessary complete color matching. Otherwise, all your work may disappear for nothing. It is better to use repair paints, since it will take stencil to cover a small area of \u200b\u200bthe aerosol. For coloring small restored sites, you can purchase special quick-drying pencils.

Tips Prof.

With manual grinding of corrosive spots of a small size, the skirt is desirable to be watched by White spirit. The processed area is better limited by scotch.